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September 2002

Mystery Muncher: Utopia

From soup to nuts…literally, Utopia has it all

From the title of this column, you can see that, for the one-year anniversary of the Trenton Downtowner, my assignment, and I have chosen to accept it, was Utopia, on West Front Street. I invited a good friend to go with me just so we were sure about the results. We picked the date only the day before, since we have busy schedules.

Friday morning, I was having a coffee and reading the op-ed of the Trenton Times when, lo and behold, in a letter to the editor, there's a positive commentary on Utopia! I immediately called the Munchkin and said I was going to call for reservations.

Well, they told me it was not necessary to call ahead, but all I can say is when we arrived at 12:30, the place was packed and there was only one table left.

The letter I'd read in the paper indicated that the décor was charming, and it was correct: it's an environment of warm yellow walls and several lovely watercolors. The bar, straight out of the deco era, is an outstanding piece where many perfect martinis have been served.

We ordered a selection from the menu, beginning with the New Jersey crab chowder ($8). Nice chunks of backfin, not too many potatoes and served in a delicious sourdough bread bowl. We skipped the salads, but the selection ran from the house salad of standard greens ($6) with Utopia's house dressing, a classic Caesar ($7) to the orange almond Asian salad ($8), which consists of grilled bok choy, mandarin oranges and spicy soy dressing topped with toasted almonds.

For the appetizer I have previously had the seared yellowfin tuna wontons ($8), which are out of this world. Garlic, green onion, hoisin sauce, teriyaki and soy wrapped in wonton with an orange chili glaze. It's one of my favorites. I keep hearing about the B-52's ($8), so I decided to see what all the fuss was about. Okay, now I get it…very deep-fried wings with a sort of honey barbecue sauce, really nice crispy onions and diagonally sliced cucumbers. Those were great, and I will be ordering many more of those in the future.

So, on to the entrée! I had the jerk chicken ($14) with beans and rice. Well-prepared chicken, crispy skin and even though a tad dry, the flavor was great. The beans and rice were like none that I have ever tasted. This was paired with the house red, a delightful Bodega merlot that coasted well through out the meal.

Munchkin had the baked cod ($12), lightly crusted with just enough coating to hold the fish for presentation. The accompanying red mashed potatoes could have been warmer, but again were still very good, as were the veggies that accompanied them. Munchkin had the house chardonnay that did well in complement.

During the meal we glanced over the menu. Entrees range from $19 to $24; soups, salads and appetizers from $6 to $8 and sandwiches and lunch menu items go from $8 to $11. These are wonderful prices considering the quality of what is delivered, the presentation and the friendly and courteous service. Plus it's topped off with general manager Boyd Wilson's smiling face.

Finishing up, we just looked at each other…we said what the heck…bread pudding and crème brulee for dessert. The bread pudding looked remarkable, but I can't say personally how it tasted, as Munchkin was not giving any of it up. The crème brulee, served with the tangerine slices and sauce, was plated beautifully, as was the entire meal.

All in all, if it seems like I did not want this review to end, I didn't. I had the same sensation while enjoying the meal. My compliments to Chef L. Dametrious Sadler and Boyd Wilson on their recent one-year anniversary…you will have many more to come. And thank you for coming to Trenton.

Utopia International Bistro
11 West Front Street
Trenton, NJ, 08608
609-394-1991

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