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July 2002

New Jersey State Museum makes Delaware star for the season

by Joe Emanski

New Jersey State Museum Curator of Cultural History Jim Turk is a man who knows his stuff. Responsible for the museum's current featured exhibit, "River of Leisure: Recreation Along the Delaware River and Bay," Turk gives the impression that he was involved in every minute of the detailed research, artifact acquisition and exhibit assembly that went into making the project a success.

The hard work has paid off. The exhibit features photographs of bygone eras when the Delaware River had a somewhat different significance for the people who lived in its valley. Far from merely an industrial waterway, the Delaware has a long history as a center of tourism, recreation and leisure.

New Jersey's seashore is as much as ever the state's premier destination for travelers and vacationers. But as travel and leisure gradually became a reality for more and more Americans toward the end of the eighteenth century, natural scenery that did not recall the urban life of the period attracted the masses to places like the Delaware Water Gap and boating clubs along the length of the river.

"A hundred fifty years ago, picture this area-(the development) was not contiguous," says Turk. "The impetus of resort communities was the same then as it is now-to get away from it all." It's hard to see Riverton (N.J.) today as a place to get away from it all, says Turk, but back when each town was its own separate world with wilderness at its borders, a place like Riverton was essentially remote.

Sadly, the same industry that made Trenton a prominent regional city also figured in the decline of the Delaware as a tourist destination. Pollution changed the character of the river. The amusement parks and summer camps along the riverbanks closed, and eventually summer "resort communities" like Riverton became year-round locations.

Trenton's leisure scene around the turn of the previous century looked somewhat different than it does now. White City Amusement Park, which closed in 1937, offered in that day what Great Adventure does today. And canoe clubs were extremely common on both sides of the river near Trenton as social clubs for the region's upper class. Fire has claimed much of what socioeconomic changes did not. But the river's particular attributes made it a viable alternative to the more distant Jersey shore.

"The falls and the freshwater appealed to the people of the day," says Turk.

The Delaware River is particularly known for its decoy carving-to this day, detailed decoys are created by artisans such as Trenton native Bob White, the "last of the old school carvers," according to Turk, and his apprentice John Wood, a former Trenton police officer.

Delaware River decoys often feature raised wing carvings and extraordinary detail not usually found in decoys. The fact that duck hunters in the non-tidal areas of the river shot at the birds from boats instead of blinds led to the notion that the decoys had to be that much more convincing.

"Ducks and geese may not be that discerning," Turk says with amusement. "But that belief led to the school of carving." White and Wood's carvings are highly sought among collectors of decoys.

Among the many other artifacts gathered in the exhibit are boats used for duck hunting and numerous photographs of times gone by.

"(The exhibit) seems to be evoking many memories and responses," says Turk. "One of our guards here was particularly interested to see Camp Osceola mentioned. Another guard remembered River Beach State Park."

Trenton's residents are often cited for their willingness to recall the old days in Trenton. Seeing the exhibit, one can't help but note that Trenton has changed, quite a bit. As have most of the cities along the Delaware. Change is, as they say, inevitable.

"River of Leisure" calls up nostalgic feelings even for those who never knew Trenton in other times. From Rotary Island's lodge house-long ago destroyed-to Florence's hotel-also long gone-to the evolution of the Delaware River decoy, the Delaware River's heritage as a place for the masses to go and enjoy life is clear. The exhibit runs through November 3, 2002 and admission is free. It's worth a visit to see what we're missing, as well as what we might want to think about reclaiming as we talk so much these days about Trenton's revival.

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