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December 2002

Baldassari Regency brings the best cuisine to the 'Burg

By Joe Emanski

It's all too rare occasion when the editorial staff of the Trenton Downtowner takes advantage of an opportunity for a night on the town, but when we heard about Baldassari Regency's fall wine dinner, a special evening event with one of Washington, D.C.'s most celebrated Italian chefs, Cesare Lanfranconi, we decided to shut everything down, gather the spouses, and head over to Chambersburg. Chef Cesare's Ristorante Tosca was recently named new restaurant of the year in Washington for 2002 and when we saw members of the Trenton Marriott's cooking staff anxiously awaiting the start of the evening's meal, we knew we were going to experience something special.

It's no surprise to frequenters of the 'Burg to learn that, after the cocktail reception, we sat down at our banquet table and were immediately welcomed and treated like extended family by the evening's host, Paul Baldassari, who warmly greeted the roomful of diners with a few stories as he kicked off the dinner. The evening's co-stars-the amusing Chef Enzo Febbraro and the rest of the cooking staff as well as the stellar wait staff-stood by as Paul introduced them and then as Chef Cesare explained the night's menu.

The five courses of chestnut soup with lobster, ravioli, risotto, beef tenderloins and citrus-tinged cannoli were an experience. The risotto topped with minced truffles easily offered the aroma of the night for my nose, the delicate soup perhaps the most profound flavors, but all five dishes delivered a culinary experience that should not have been missed.

Even if you did miss the October 30 dinner, you still have a chance to catch another one of Baldassari Regency's fine guest chefs before the year is out. On December 4, The Baldassari family and Chef Enzo, of Filomena Ristorante also in Washington, D.C., extend an invitation to you to experience the tradition of Festa dei Sette Pesci-the Feast of the Seven Fish. Antipasti will include marinated fresh anchovy, battered shrimp with arugula, tuna carpaccio and a chilled calamari salad. The salad course will feature Dover sole and Sardinian Bottarga, while the pasta course will include a ragu of imported seafood.

A casserole of salmon, shiitake mushrooms and purple potato in a baby artichoke puree will complete the main courses, followed by a dessert of crunchy sfogliatelle (a pasta) filled with ricotta cheese and candied fruit and served with Chantilly cream and marinated red cherries. Coffee and tea will be served afterward and each course will be accompanied by wine.

The cost for attending this feast is $75 per person all-inclusive and reservations are required. Call (609) 392-1280 to reserve your seat or for more information. You can also visit them on the Web at www.baldassari.com. Baldassari Regency is located at 145 Morris Avenue.

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