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April 2002

Mystery Muncher: River City Café

River City Café
559 Emory Ave
609-394-2900

Okay, so I had not been to River City in some time and I was wondering if anything was different or was it going to be the same old 'ting. I got there after the city sweeper on Tuesday, so there was plenty of parking right out front. Since I was by myself, I sat at the bar.

They have a wonderful looking setup, and just as I was starting to enjoy the details like the piano bar, Blair asked me if I needed a beverage. I said I was there for lunch and she insisted I would be more comfortable in the dining room.

"Come on in here, trust me, you will like the atmosphere and enjoy yourself more," she said. Well, this was very friendly and different already. I sat down at a nice table in their freshly redecorated dining room and got very comfortable.

Out of nowhere Erica asked me if I would like a beverage, which Blair was already getting-the house Merlot. Erica handed me a menu. She rattled off the specials and I nestled in for a good meal.

Regular readers know I like my soups (The Muncher's spouse is the best soup-maker I know) so with the choice of pasta fagiole or soup of the day, I choose a cup of the spinach and chicken soup laced with a few carrots and freshly ground pepper ($1.95; bowl $2.50). It was an excellent start, and I must say here that you can usually tell what kind of establishment you are frequenting by the soup and how it arrives. It was hot, delicious, with great bread (butter was a little cold), well presented and combined with wonderful manners. It's nice to find an establishment with a wait staff that knows the plural of you is not "yous."

Next on the agenda was an appetizer. Here I switched to the house chianti; good nose on this wine, with a fine finish. I had a choice of artichoke Francaise ($5.95), calamari (two ways), clams casino, scallops wrapped in bacon and even New Zealand mussels, to pick just a few. All were moderately priced from $4.95 to $7.95. I thought I was getting a small appetizer of barbecued shrimp with bacon ($6.95). What I received were five very large shrimp in a barbecue sauce that had a hint of brown sugar that was almost too sweet. I made it through this course, making sure it was what I expected by dipping the French bread it was served on in the sauce, my goodness where am I going to put those crab cakes I ordered?

The crab cakes need to have the name changed; maybe River City Crab Clusters. There was no cake or bread involved. It was, unless this Maryland native was completely fooled, solid crab, all backfin if I say so myself. It was prepared the way they do it in St. Michael's. Gently dipped in egg to hold it together and sautéed in a wine and lemon butter sauce, it was beautifully surrounded by artichokes, mushrooms, and tomatoes; it is normally served with a potato that I declined. And thank you for not overcooking the crab.

It was a wonderful meal and I was completely filled, I thought. Then, again out of nowhere popped Erica to ask me if I would like an espresso ($2.50). What a great idea. With the size of this meal I needed to make sure I didn't go to sleep after a great lunch.

I realize now how Erica set me up for…the dessert tray! Holy cow. Choices of classic New York Cheesecake with graham cracker crust or tiramisu tempted me until I saw the imperial cake with hazelnut crust and crème topping. Smooth as silk and deliciously wonderful. I cannot remember much after that. I had just overdosed on an exquisite meal of gastronomic delight-great house wine and, I have got to mention this again, the wonderful manners of the staff. Thank you…I highly recommend River City Café for lunch…now if I can just get the Trenton Downtowner to send me out for some dinners…

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