April 2002
Trenton’s new executive chef brings flavor
to downtown
By
Joe Emanski
 |
|
Chef
Joe LoRusso
|
Executive
Chef Joe LoRusso of Archives, the restaurant in the Lafayette
Yard Marriott Conference Hotel brings a new dimension to New Jersey’s
capital city. While Chambersburg’s restaurant district has
long provided Trenton with a culinary identity, the new hotel
and its cooking staff of 20, led by Chef LoRusso, promises to
provide a delectable metropolitan contrast to the trusty hometown
cooking that makes Trenton a dining destination.
Chef LoRusso, 35, a native of Philadelphia, began his culinary
education locally at Middle Bucks Technical School before embarking
on Bachelor of Science in Food Service Management at Rhode Island’s
renowned Johnson and Wales University. Since graduating in 1988,
Mr. LoRusso has been a rising star in the Marriott family of hotels.
He began his Marriott career as a manager-in-training at the Greensboro
High Point (N.C.) Airport Marriott, before moving to the J.W.
Marriott Houston as assistant sous chef.
Three years later, Chef LoRusso became sous chef at the Miami
Airport Marriott, then senior sous chef at the Philadelphia Downtown
Convention Marriott. In 1999, he was named executive chef of Philadelphia
Marriott West, in Conshohocken, Pa. So clearly, the City of Trenton
is honored to receive such a high-caliber chef into its ranks.
For
his part, Chef LoRusso is clearly excited to be a part of one
of the jewels of Trenton’s revitalization project. His enthusiasm
for his craft, as well as his professionalism, are firmly embedded
in his personality. The start-up of a new first-class restaurant
is a trying, but exhilarating task.
"In
the last couple of months, we’ve worked on the menu concept—trying
to get a feel for what Trenton is about, what kind of flair and
food will go well here," says Chef LoRusso. Mr. LoRusso and
Director of Food Services Tom Logan have chosen a menu replete
with "old-school cooking techniques" that they feel
suits the city’s image.
While Marriott hotels are home to "theme" restaurants,
such as Alleys or JW Steakhouse, that feature menus that are common
from place to place, in Trenton, says Chef LoRusso, "There
is no ‘concept.’ They are allowing the chefs to be more
creative."
One of the aspects of Archives that is sure to be among the most
talked about is the "exhibition kitchen," an open cooking
area where diners will be able to see, hear and smell their meals
being prepared. "I think it’s going to be great,"
says Mr. LoRusso. "You have a focal point for the customer—it
makes it feel more like we’re established. We’re going
to be like performers."
Chef LoRusso does not like to say he has a signature dish. His
philosophy is to distribute his expertise equally throughout each
dish that he makes. "If there’s something I don’t
know, I’ll get a few books," he says. "You have
to keep building yourself up."
For
their part, the Marriott believes in chefs whose education never
ends. Marriott chefs regularly attend continuing education courses
at the Culinary Instititue of America, in programs like "Hot
Food Competition," "American Bistro," and even
tailor-made programs like "Marriott’s Chef’s Excellence."
Often the programs require chefs to receive a "mystery basket"
of ingredients at the start of a day, from which they must prepare
a full-course meal.
As for the increased visibility of chefs these days, through the
popularity of television channels like the Food Network and the
increase in cooking shows in general, Chef LoRusso thinks that
ultimately it’s a good thing for the industry. "People
recognize the work that goes into it now," he says. "People
are focused on it now and they’re challenging chefs more
now. I think the exhibition kitchen is a good example. Cooking
is more of an art now."
Among
Archives’ culinary staff are assistant sous chef Otis Castello,
who comes from Marriott’s Renaissance New York Hotel, and
banquet chef Malachi Browne, who has come with Chef LoRusso from
the Philadelphia Marriott West. Whether they’re preparing
Joe LoRusso’s favorite food—seafood—or Archives’
soon-to-be-famous Battle Monument Dessert, you can be sure that
they’re concentrating on bringing you a great food experience,
right here in Trenton.
